And Quiet Flows the Bhagirathi: Murshidabad in the 21st Century

And Quiet Flows the Bhagirathi ----- Murshidabad in the 21st century

(A memory of Bengal's lost capital on the banks of Bhagirathi)

 

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The Forgotten Capital 

The Bhagirathi River is a distributary of the Ganges (Ganga). It leaves Ganga just northeast of Jangipur, flows south, and joins Jalangi at Nabadwip. The banks of the Bhagirathi earned a very special place in history for providing sanctuary to legendary settlements, most notably Murshidabad and Palashi. 

During the reign of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, the capital of undivided Bengal, Bihar, and Orissa was shifted from Dhaka to Murshidabad. The name was coined by the first Nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan. As the capital of the entire eastern segment of today’s India and Bangladesh, this little-known town rose to prominence in the early eighteenth century. The immense wealth of Murshidabad drew people from all over the world. Jain merchants from the deserts of Rajasthan, influential figures like Debi Singh from Punjab, rubbed shoulders with European traders from England, Holland, Portugal, and France. Together, they had transformed the city into a vibrant, cosmopolitan powerhouse. 

Stepping into a Faded Era

Murshidabad is remarkably close to Kolkata, with convenient train connections available right from Sealdah and Kolkata stations. Yet, it took until 2014 for my wife and me to finally set off on a short weekend getaway to explore its history. Having read so much of the bustling activities and cosmopolitan nature of Murshidabad during the Nawab era, the overall impression of the town was quite appalling. The place seems to have frozen in time since the mid-nineteenth century. It was quite late in the night when our train finally pulled into Murshidabad station. As our hotel was very close to the station, we decided to walk down. On the platform itself, we saw a man with roguish looks staring at us. Craftily avoiding any eye contact, we came out on the street, asked about the hotel direction from a dhaba outside, and started walking into the darkness.

It was not absolute darkness, but the street wore a scary look as it was dimly lit. Moreover, the eerie silence added to our fear. We had an uncanny sense of someone trailing our footsteps. Our hearts raced until we reached the safety of the hotel lobby – only to find the exact same man from the station standing behind the reception counter! As it turned out, he was a member of the hotel staff who had been sent to the station specifically to escort us safely.

Sadly, Murshidabad's importance as a lively cosmopolitan town began to decline when the capital was shifted from Murshidabad to Calcutta by Warren Hastings, the first governor-general of British India, in 1772. More appalling is the fact that today it is even worse than any of the smaller rural towns of Bengal. The picture of an abandoned town and a ghost town at night.

The Palace with a thousand doors

Horse-drawn Tongas and Toto are the most popular means of transport in the town. We availed both for our sightseeing journey in Murshidabad. The most talked-about and imposing edifice is Hazarduari Palace (a palace with a thousand doors). The foundation stone of Hazarduari Palace was laid in the presence of Governor-General Lord William Bentinck in 1829, and the construction was completed in 1837. The massive palace in Greek architectural style has 900 real doors and 100 false doors. It has now been converted into a museum. The palace was built by Duncan McLeod for Najim Humayun Jah, a descendant of Mir Jafar. The only surviving structure built by Siraj-ud-doula is the Madina Mosque in the palace forecourt. It is an ornamental replica of Hazrat Muhammad’s tomb at Medina. Another monument at the perimeter of the palace is Nizamat Imambara. The Imambara, considered to be the largest in India, was built by Nawab Nazim Mansoor Ali Khan after the Imambara built by Siraj-ud-doula was destroyed by fire. A majestic clock tower, sometimes referred to as ‘Big Ben of Murshidabad,' stands in the forecourt of the palace. The only drawback compared to the original Big Ben is that it does not work and chime now. 

The exhibits displayed in the palace include Nawab Siraj-ud-Doula’s prized possessions, the swords used by him, cannons and other weapons and armouries used during the Battle of Plassey (1757), oil paintings of Dutch, French, and Italian artists, rare marble, porcelain, and stucco statues, farmans, rare books and manuscripts, palanquins owned by the Nawabs, and various other antiquities. The palace is located on the bank of Bhagirathi. Unfortunately, in the year we visited, we had to find our way to the bank of the beautiful Bhagirathi. The stalls of vendors selling their wares almost obliterated the river and its bank. 

Siraj, Begum Pasands and the Battle of Plassey

On the opposite bank is Khosh Bagh cemetery, where lie the graves of Siraj-ud-Doula, his wife Lutfannasha, Nawab Alivardi Khan, and some other members of the Nawab's family. And a little further towards Calcutta is Palashi (Plassey) on the bank of Bhagirathi. Some dense mango fields are located on this bank, and the orchards have been there since the era of the Bengal Nawabs. Murshidabad is famous for some of the finest varieties of mangoes in India. The Nawabs of Murshidabad and their Begums were great connoisseurs of this adorable fruit, and that is the reason that the variety they savoured most was named Begumpasand. 

The first battle for independence, famously known as the Battle of Plassey, took place in a dense mango field in 1757. Already at odds with the British East India Company, Nawab Siraj-ud-Doula led a force of about 50,000 soldiers against Robert Clive's pitiful 5,000 on June 23, 1757. But nothing went right with the young Siraj on that fateful day. First, the outcome of the battle was decided much before Siraj’s army moved into Plassey. The ugly fangs of one of the greatest betrayals that changed the face of Indian history were at play. Mir Jafar, Siraj's uncle, was the crafty traitor. For this reason, Nimak Haram Deori, or the traitor's gate, is the name given to the main gate of Nawab Mir Jafar's Jafarganj Palace. Both the palace where Siraj-ud-daula was brutally killed and the gate lie in total ruins today. Across the road and just opposite this palace lies the Jafarganj cemetery, built by Mir Jafar. 

The woe of Nawab Siraj-ud-Doula did not end with betrayal. He was pinned down by a severe monsoon storm over Bhagirathi, which drenched the troops and dampened the unprotected gunpowder. Any hopes for pulling up dimmed when his most trusted commander, Mir Madan, was critically injured from the accidental break-up of a cannon gifted by the Portuguese to the Nawab’s armory (the cannon is on display in Hazarduari). Finally, Siraj’s valiant effort to pursue and beg his soldiers to continue the fight went in vain. Though unsavoury, it was a decisive victory for Robert Clive and the British. The battle flung open the inroads for the British on the subcontinent. William Dalrymple has mentioned the intrusion in his brilliant and captivating book “The Last Mughal": Since they (the increasingly powerful British) had finally succeeded in conquering and subduing the Sikhs in 1849, the British suddenly found themselves the masters of South Asia: every single one of their military rivals had now been conquered—Siraj-ud-Doula of Bengal in 1757, the French in 1761, Tipu Sultan of Mysore in 1799, and the Marathas in 1803 and again, finally, in 1819."

Three days after the Battle of Plassey, an important meeting had taken place between Robert Clive, William Watts, Walsh, Mir Jafar, Miran, and Rai Durlabh at Kathgola Garden House located in the Lalbagh area. This is one of the few surviving buildings from the era of the eighteenth-century Bengal Nawabs. At this point, I admit that I had no inkling about Siraj-ud Doula’s palace. In as much of history I know of and have seen in my lifetime, every famous ruler built a lavish palace to live in. But at Murshidabad, from where Siraj ruled, there was no trace of his residence. Later, I learned that he did indulge in profligacy, which led him to build a vast palace on the low-lying bank of Bhagirathi. Bhagirathi, in those days, had the notoriety of changing its course very frequently. In the absence of dams, there used to be a flood almost every year. The Mansurganj Palace, the residence of Nawab Siraj-ud-Doula, was a grand structure, but owing to its location in a low-lying area, it was frequently inundated and ultimately disappeared over the years. Perhaps the last mention of the palace dates back to 24th June 1757, a day after the Battle of Plassey. On that day, Robert Clive placed Mir Jafar on the stone throne in Mansurganj Palace. The stone throne used for the coronation of Nawabs is now kept in the Victoria Memorial in Calcutta. 

The House of Jagat Seth and other surviving 18th-century buildings

The other surviving buildings, which buzzed with activities when Murshidabad was at its prime and are worth visiting, are the following: 

The House of Jagat Seth

The house is now a museum, where some rare coins and emeralds are among the exhibits. 'Jagat Seth' was a title meaning 'Bankers of the World.' Fateh Chand, who displayed remarkable dexterity in trading and banking achievements during the early part of the eighteenth century, was the first person to be bestowed with the title by Emperor Muhammad Shah. Thereafter, it was handed down in the dynasty for over a century for this particular Marwari community, who were Jains by religion. Madahav Rai was Jagat Seth during Siraj-ud-Daula's tenure. It is said that he was slapped and insulted by Siraj for denying a loan requisition of Rs 3 crores. Thereafter, he played a key role in Bengal's politics by helping Mir Jafar secure the Subahdari of Bengal from the Mughal Emperor in Delhi. They also operated a mint from Murshidabad, where they had settled and had made Murshidabad the commercial and financial capital, not only of undivided Bengal, Bihar, and Orissa but of India as well.

Nasirpur Palace

A miniature version of Hazarduari was built by Kirti Chand, who was a descendant of Debi Singh of Punjab. Debi Singh was a notorious tax collector and had settled here in the early days of the East India Company. The palace known as Nasirpur Palace, or the house of Debi Singh, has an imposing façade. Although abandoned and in ruins today, the palace continues to house idols of gods and goddesses. It is because the famous Jhulan Festival is still held on its premises.

Other Remains

Architecturally similar to the Katra mosque was the mosque built by Azimunnisa Begum. Azimunnisa Begum was the daughter of the first Nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan, who named the place Murshidabad. She's buried under the stairs, too, like her dad. Today, the mosque is in ruins.

Except for the remains from about 150 years of history since the beginning of 1700 AD, nothing else was there. For instance, the ruins of Mir Jafar’s Palace were unkempt, with an overgrown jungle inside. Even the gates were closed to the visitors. It appeared to me that the town was not able to keep pace with time. With dusk, the town retires into a quiescent state. Sleepy and neglected, it hardly boasts of once being the capital of undivided Bengal, Bihar, and Orissa and the commercial capital of India. Unlike its counterpart in Oudh (Awadh), the culture, lifestyle, and culinary art associated with the Nawabs and Begums were strangely missing. There were vibrant moments on the Bhagirathi, like festivals on boats, illumination, and fireworks, hosted by the Nawabs on the river. The river now flows quietly, totally oblivious of its past. 

 

 

 

 

 Photo credit: Arundhati Sengupta

Hazar Duari: the palace of thousand gates

Kathgola Garden House located in Lalbagh area. It was here that Robert Clive, William Watts and Walsh had an important meeting with Mir Jafar, Miran and Rai Durlabh three days after the famous Battle of Plassey in 1757.

Another view of Kathgola mansion. This was a retreat for wealthy Jain merchants Dhanpat Singh Dugar and Lakshmipant Singh. This is fringed with picturesque gardens, a lake, and a pond for bathing.

Kathgola secret passage which was connected to Bhagirathi river was used by the Jain traders and Jagat Seth for transporting and trading valuables.

Adinath Temple, an 18th-century Jain temple in the Kathgola complex. A typically Jain ornamentation lends unique beauty to the temple.

Idol of Lord Ganesha outside Adinath Temple

Ornate garden area in Kathgola complex

Another idol outside the Adinath Temple

Jagat Seth House has this inscription at the gate, which tells the history of Jagat Seth. It is said that Jagat Seth started their original fortune in the jade trade, for in those days the Mughal courtiers valued highly green jade from Burma because of the belief that if poisoned food was served in it, it would shatter or discolour. And they also traded in other precious emeralds and grew hugely rich as the Nawab's banker.

Another tablet on Jagat Seth

The House of Jagat Seth is now a museum,where a part of display are some rare coins and emeralds. 'Jagat Seth' means 'Banker of the world,' and this title was first bestowed upon Fateh Chand in the early 18th century by Emperor Muhammad Shah in view of his innovativeness and greatness in trading and banking achievements in those days. Thereafter, it was handed down through the dynasty for over a century for this particular Marwari community, who were Jains by religion. Madahav Rai was Jagat Seth during Siraj-ud-Daula's tenure. It is said that he was slapped and insulted by Siraj for denying a loan requisition of Rs 3 crores. Thereafter, he played a key role in Bengal's politics by helping Mir Jafar secure the Subahdari of Bengal from the Mughal Emperor in Delhi. They also operated a mint from Murshidabad, where they had settled and had made Murshidabad the commercial and financial capital, not only of undivided Bengal, Bihar, and Orissa but of India as well.

  

Another portion of Nasirpur Palace in state of ruins.

The famous Thakurbari in Nasirpur Rajbari where 'Jhulan' of Lord Krishna is celebrated even on this day..

Tomb of Azimunnisa Begum, wife of Nawab Shuja-ud-daula and daughter of the First Nawab of Bengal Murshid Quli Khan, who gave the place its name Murshidabad. Azimunnisa built this mosque, the architecture of which is similar to Katra mosque. Like her father, she is also interred beneath the staircase.

The main gate of Jafarganj Palace of Nawab Mir Jafar is Nimak Haram Deori (gate of the traitor). The gate and the palace, where Siraj-ud-daula was mercilessly killed, are in a total ruin. Opposite this palace, across the road, is the Jafarganj cemetery built by Mir Jafar.

Madina mosque in the foreground. It has an ornamental replica of Hazrat Muhammad’s tomb at Madina. This is the only surviving building of the structures of Siraj-ud-doula. Behind that stands the Nizamat Imambara, built by Nawab Nazim Mansoor Ali Khan after Siraj’s Imambara was burnt down. This is likely the largest Imambara in India.

Hazarduari Palace (Palace of a thousand doors). This huge three-storied European-style palace was built by Duncan McLeod for Nawab Najim Humayun Jah (descendant of Mir Jafar)

This majestic clock tower in Hazarduari premises is sometimes referred as 'Big Ben of Murshidabad' The only drawback is that the clock does not work and chime now.

The foundation stone of Hazarduari Palace was laid in presence of Governor General Lord William Bentinck in 1829, and the construction was completed in 1837. The palace has 900 real doors and 100 imaginary doors. It has now been converted into a museum.

Quiet flows the Bhagirathi

Views of the Bhagirathi River from the bank where the Hazarduari Palace and Imambara are located. On the opposite bank is Khosh Bagh cemetery, where lie the graves of Siraj-ud-Daula, his wife Lutfannasha, Nawab Alivardi Khan and some other members of the Nawab's family.

Views of dense mango orchards near Plassey. Murshidabad is famous for some of the finest varieties of mangoes in India. The Nawabs of Murshidabad and their Begums were great connoisseurs of this adorable fruit, and that is the reason that the variety they savoured most was named Begumpasand. The famous Battle of Plassey was also fought within these mango groves.

Plassey Station. This place, which is about a few miles from Murshidabad town, witnessed the famous Battle of Plassey in 1757 between Siraj-ud-Daula, Nawab of Bengal, and Robert Clive of the British East India Company.

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Have you ever explored the historic lanes of Murshidabad?

Standing amidst the silent ruins of Jafarganj or looking up at the grand pillars of Hazarduari truly makes history come alive.

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