Seville

SEVILLE

Sevilla

After living up to some wonderful moments at Granada, the birthplace of the renowned Spanish poet and playwright Federico Garcia Lorca, we decided to further our coadventure through the heartland of the southern Iberian Peninsula, composed of lowlands, mountains and valleys. You’ve got it right. To arrive at Seville, we traversed the fascinating Spanish heartland. The landscape presented some vistas composed of rustic plains, lowlands, winding roads through the Sierra and then vast stretches of olive orchards. About 200 years back, a couple of decades after Napoleon’s army plundered and destroyed parts of Alhambra, an American diplomat and writer, Washington Irving and his Russian counterpart traversed the path from Seville to Granada. It was highly adventurous then, because of the fact that the transport system at that time was horse-drawn carriages and muleteers. It was such that they could ‘wander among the romantic mountains of Andalusia’ (Tales of Alhambra). The author experienced a stern melancholy country with rugged mountains and long sweeping plain destitute of trees, and indescribably silent and lonesome partaking of the savage and solitary character of Africa.’ A lot of changes have taken place since then. Modern road networks and transportation systems, but the landscape has not undergone many metamorphic changes in its character. It still continues echoing similar feelings expressed by the traveller in the early nineteenth century.

Sevilla 'nos da la bienvenida'

Seville welcomed us with a sparklingly bright and sunny day. We checked in at Samay Hostal, located in the heart of the old city. In Spanish, ‘Hostel’ is known as ‘Hostal’, a very popular form of accommodation in Spain. Compared with a hotel, hostels are normally centrally located and at the same time budget-friendly. Apart from dorms, family rooms with en-suite bathrooms are also available in hostals. In addition, a boarder has access to amenities like a self-service kitchen and dining space where one can enjoy tea, coffee and snacks. What was great about this hostel was a team of extremely friendly and hospitable staff, always prepared to help the guests. Most of them were from Argentina and Brazil. Our room was on the ground floor with an ensuite bathroom. A comfortable room with windows facing a charming neighbourhood.

The first day was spent recceing neighbourhood of the place we settled. Walking towards the old quarter in the company of a gentle evening breeze was sweet and refreshing. There were many cafes and pubs on the way. The pathway turned right at a partial T junction where trams are available. The peculiarity of the tramcars running on this stretch was instantly visible, as these trams operated without the overhead contact wire. At least I have not seen it in any other cities I have been to, including my city Calcutta. Later I learnt that the city administration was compelled to do away with catenaries in the neighbourhood of the Cathedral during the early part of this century to allow Easter processions to seamlessly pass through without any restrictions. The system in use now uses a technology called ACR (Acumulator de Carga Rapida). Developed and patented by CAF Spain, the trams equipped with ACR are fast-charged while at stops. The first such charging point we noticed was close to Seville University on one side and the Hard Rock Café on the opposite side.

The magnificent neoclassical building, which houses some departments including an administrative section, is freely accessible to students, staff and curious tourists (like us) throughout the day. The walkway from the main entrance leads through parallel layers of similar buildings. What a depth, which from the outside is difficult to even imagine. Classrooms, office, canteen, museum displaying some sculptures dating back to perhaps the first century, all abuzz since 1949 when the factory halls were taken over by the University of Seville. It now houses the university’s main administrative offices and several faculties such as Law, Science, and Philosophy and Letters. This splendid piece of industrial architecture is now a strange and beautiful blend of history with academia. This magnificent stone building was constructed between 1728 to 1771 by order of the Royal family for housing the Royal Tobacco Factory in Seville (headquarters of the first tobacco factory established in Europe). A plaque at the entrance shows that. It was a huge industrial set up. The complex had over 100 mills for grinding tobacco, the system powered by about 400 mules. Around 10,000 female employees were housed in the factory at its peak.

It is said that one of the employees had a unique skill of rolling cigars between her thighs. Her name was Carmen, a fiery gypsy woman. Inspired by real events, the famous nineteenth-century French composer Georges Bizet composed an opera on Carmen. Act 1 draws up ‘A square, in Seville. On the right, a door to the tobacco factory. At the back, a bridge. On the left, a guardhouse. A group of soldiers relax in the square, waiting for the changing of the guard….’ Next, as the factory bell rings, the cigarette girls emerge and exchange banter with young men in the crowd. Carmen enters and sings her provocative habanera on the untameable nature of love (L’amour est un oiseau rebelle’). The men plead with her to choose a lover, and after some teasing, she throws a flower to Don José, who thus far has been ignoring her but is now annoyed by her insolence.’ I share this fascinating journey through time because I am still obsessed with a feeling that we would have otherwise overlooked this magnificent stone building, had it not triggered my curiosity to explore this relatively unknown tourist site. The square, mentioned in Bizet’s opera, is now a wide road with tram tracks at the centre. A few yards from the building was a tram stop from where we had taken a tram up to the Cathedral terminus.

The Cathedral 'Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede'

The magnificent Cathedral of Sevilla loom large at the square. The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See (Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede) is the largest Gothic Cathedral and the third largest church in the world. In fact, after its completion in the early sixteenth century, it supplanted Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, which till then held the record of being the largest for over a thousand years. The cathedral was built on the site of a former Almohad mosque. The construction started in 1402 and was completed after over a century in 1519(may be only after the Moors were totally vanquished at the Battle of Granada in 1492). In the same year, i.e. 1492, Queen Isabella sponsored Christopher Columbus on his historic voyage across the Atlantic. There were long queues for entrance tickets to the cathedral. Once inside, we saw a series of works by the famous painter Murillo, and the Renaissance sacristy featuring a dome depicting the Last Judgement. Stained glass windows; the Royal Chapel, which houses the resting places of Ferdinand III of Castile, his son Alfonso the Wise and their descendant King Peter the Cruel; a separate resting place for Christopher Columbus and his navigator son Diego adorn the interiors of the cathedral. A part of the cathedral is one of the most iconic landmarks of Seville, the Giralda Tower. One of the tallest structures in Seville, it stands at 341 ft (equivalent to a 34-story building). A symbol of Seville, the lower two-thirds retains its original Islamic structure, and the upper third, which was added in the sixteenth century, is in the Renaissance style. Originally a minaret for the Grand Mosque of Seville, it was converted into the Bell Tower for the new cathedral after the Reconquista in 1248. One of the fascinating parts of the construction was building a series of wide ramps in place of stairs. It was done to allow the muezzin to ride a horse to the top for calling to prayer. Visitors are allowed to go up to the top. Unfortunately, I was not in a position to climb as I had at that time developed a severe orthopaedic problem. My wife compensated by climbing to the top. I enjoyed seeing through her eyes and feelings the scenarios she later shared with me. Panoramic view of the city, her experience in walking up the ramps and hearing the bells chime while standing in the bell chamber, all built between 600 to 800 years back. The last part of the cathedral we visited was the ablutions courtyard for the Muslims. Now this beautiful courtyard has a fountain at the centre, surrounded by orange trees. Visitors are not allowed to pluck oranges, thereby making the place temptuous and more colourful with bright and fresh oranges populating the trees. The entire ecclesiastic complex has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, like its next-door neighbour, the Alcazar.

Alcazar

Samay Hostal, where we stayed, was located on Avenida Menendez Pelayo. The hostel staff helped us in exploring the shortest route to the Alcazar. The first right turn towards southwest, walk a little past various eateries emitting tempting smells, turn left at a point where the road meets a pedestrian pathway dating back to the Moorish reign. Despite proper traffic signals, one has to cross to the other side with utmost caution. The footpath literally merges with the motorable road. And as a result, vehicles, small or big, run over a large portion of the pavement. On either side of the pathways, which have evolved over centuries, are houses that may be from as early as the twelfth century. Visiting such areas during the first quarter of the twenty-first century generates a sort of frabjous feeling that the area has been traversed for over a thousand years.

This short journey through history led finally to a square where the stunning royal palace built by the Moorish rulers, and the Giralda tower at the rear of the cathedral greeted us. ‘Alcazar’ originally referred to a Moorish fort, which was expanded into a royal palace by successive Muslim rulers in Seville. From the time Christians took over from the Muslim rulers, it has served as a residence for Spanish royalty. Even today it serves as an official residence for the Spanish royal family when they visit Seville. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 in recognition of its cultural and historical importance, it is indeed an architectural marvel. A combination of Islamic and Christian artistic traditions, showcasing intricate tilework, wooden ceilings and beautiful arches, the architecture glorifies the Mudejar style. This unique style blends Islamic and Christian artistic traditions, i.e. Fusion of Islamic art with Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architectural elements. Developed after the Christian Reconquista by the Muslims who stayed back in the Iberian Peninsula (known as Mudejar) continued to influence local art and architecture. Beautiful and decorative glazed tilework dominates the space. Most Mudejar and Neo-Mudejar styles are characterised by a combination of Mediterranean blue and shining white. Right from geometrical patterns, floral motifs reflecting the natural beauty of the region, arabesques inspired by Islamic art, historical scenes in narrative style, and religious icons are some of the traditional patterns found in Sevillian tiles. The Neo-Mudejar style was used during the late 19th and early 20th centuries primarily in Spain and Portugal. The style was influenced by the historical Mudejar architecture, which flourished in Spain from the 12th to the 16th centuries. I came across Neo-Mudejar style being widely used at various places in Spain- Gaudí’s Casa Vicens in Barcelona, the famous bull ring Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas in Madrid, and the tiled walls of the iconic São Bento railway station in Porto. The stunning azulejos, particularly in the Hall of Ambassadors and the Patio de las Doncellas in Real Alcazar, spanning various historical periods and reflecting a beautiful blend of Moorish and Christian influences, were enough to prompt my wife to prioritise our visit to the Sevillian tiles market in the Triana district.

TRIANA - the tiles market

The Triana district is located on the other side of the Guadalquivir River. Leave aside remembering, it’s more difficult to pronounce the name of the river. Even more difficult than the Olentangy River, which we saw in Columbus, Ohio. But this river in Seville is as big as its name. It’s Spain’s most significant river, emptying into the Atlantic Ocean at the Gulf of Cadiz. During the Roman era, it was a crucial waterway for trade and transportation. During the great Age of Exploration, Seville happened to be a key port city. Famous explorers like Christopher Columbus and Ferdinand Magellan set sail from Seville port. We had taken a bus to Triana. It’s a bustling district famous for traditional as well as contemporary ceramic tiles and potteries. We were overly excited to explore this fascinating market. We also bought some magnificent tilework for carrying back home. Had a sumptuous lunch there before returning. Instead of taking a bus, we decided to cross the notable Triana Bridge, also known as the Isabel II Bridge, on foot. This iconic bridge spanning the Guadalquivir River from the Triana district to the El Arenal district is pretty wide. Built during mid mid-nineteenth century, this iron bridge has an elegant arched design. Buses and most vehicles do not seem to ply on this bridge. At least I don’t remember seeing one. The side rails were low, and the wind force was so strong that traversing the bridge seemed an uphill task. The feeling that the iron bridge was swaying under wind pressure was nauseating enough to abandon this walk. My wife, by her mountaineering training, remained totally nonchalant. Finally decided to recourse by extending our walk further to take the new bridge to cross. On the other end of the bridge, i.e. El Arenal district side, the thirteenth-century watch tower Torre del Orro greeted us. This tower once guarded the river entrance to the city. Across the road was La Maestranza, one of the oldest bullrings in Spain, dating back to the eighteenth century. The distinctive baroque façade splashed in chrome yellow and white presented a magnificent view, more so because of the sparkling evening sunlight embracing the façade on that day. In addition to the sweet river breeze, the entire space was so striking and captivating that it held us there for a while.

Flamenco - 'espectaculous'

The Moors who ruled the Andalusian parts of Spain for over 700 years had a significant influence on the music, dance and culture of Spain. Flamenco is a complex blend of various cultures, including the Moorish. The cultural intermingling over centuries, the musical elements such as the Arabic ‘Oud’, which gave birth to the Spanish guitar, contributed to the development of flamenco. It was while returning from Alcazar through the narrow lanes of the old city that we chanced upon Museo del Baile Flamenco (museum of Flamenco Dance). Housed in a centuries-old building, this unique museum is an interactive one where one can see, hear and feel flamenco as well as experience the Andalusian culture of southern Spain. Going back to my childhood days, I recall seeing an English movie, the name and content of which I don’t remember. But the visuals of a dancer performing a tap dance on a wooden table is still etched in my mind. Imagine the thrill and excitement of seeing this intricate performance right in front of my eyes during a flamenco show late in the evening. The guitar, the music, the songs, the cajon (a wooden box drum), the castanets, the palmas (hand claps), and the teamwork blend mesmerisingly with the jaleos (Andalusian dance). Percussive footwork features most of the time in a flamenco dance. Intricate rhythms are created by the dancers by tapping their heels, toes, and balls of their feet against the floor. A show that kept us spellbound for hours after that.

Culinary outings

Wherever I travel, an urge to explore and savour the emblematic dishes of the place is overwhelming. Across Spain, I savoured some of the country's delicacies like paella, tortilla, tapas, smoked mozzarella and bacon hamburger, and Iberian hamburger. During our stay in Seville, I stumbled upon a small Spanish eatery very close to our hotel. The traditional Spanish lamb stew was so delicious that I decided to dine out there for most of our stay in Seville. A thick and hearty stew prepared with meat cubes, carrots, red bell pepper, rosemary sprigs and red wine. I used to take it with bread and my favourite sangria. Furthermore, as culinary exploration has always been a cherished part of our travel, we never stick to one place. Like, a few shops ahead of the Spanish eatery, we discovered a shop displaying boldly Indian a la carte. Run by a Pakistani gentleman, Ibrar Raja, who left us wondering how an eatery with such a huge a la carte menu could be run so efficiently and single-handedly. Be it ranging from coffee and hot chocolate to chicken biriyani. Unassuming, cordial and jovial, he treated us as his family members. He even made it a point to satiate our appetite, at home, away from home.

Adios Sevilla

From Seville, we headed to Portugal. Travelled by Flix bus this time. Takes around five hours to Lisbon. Started early in the morning to be in Lisbon by noon. As we had seats behind the driver’s enclosure, we could watch the driver closely. What was striking in that journey was that he drove at a steady speed, without batting his eyes and simultaneously continually chatting on his mobile, save for a stopover for refreshment. The approach to Lisbon catches one by surprise. The spectacular view of the Tagus River and the Porte 25 de Abril (25th April Bridge) is about 3 km long and the longest suspension bridge in Europe. An iconic landmark of Lisbon, the bridge spans the Tejo estuary at its narrowest point, also referred to as Europe’s Golden Gate Humming Bridge. An amazing ghostly sound emanates from this bridge even with the slightest wind. We experienced this eerie sound when our bus was crossing this bridge.

Photo credit: Arundhati Sengupta

Sevilla

Tram track on a Seville road. There is no overhead traction wire

Inside 'Alcazar' Palace

Seville University

Olive orchard on way to Sevilla

Triana Bridge over Guadalquivir River

Ceramic market Triana

Our Spanish friends -Triana ceramic shop

An old narrow lane in Sevilla

Outside Alcazar

Alcazar Garden with orange orchard

Stunning tile work on Alcazar

Triana, the ceramic centre

Magnificent tile decoration in Alcazar

Moucharaby ( lattice window with unique and intricate geometric patterns) is an Islamic-influenced architectural feature that is familiar in residences in the cities of North Africa.