Singapore --- The Smartest Megapolis

From British Outpost to Global Powerhouse

Founded in 1819 as a trading outpost of the British East India Company, Singapore was only a small dot at the tip of the Malay Peninsula, the southernmost part of Asia. For almost half a century, Singapore was ruled by Calcutta. The small colonial post grew so rapidly that in 1965 it was formally declared as an independent city-state. Today it has turned into a global trading hub and has made the entire world its hinterland.

First Impressions at Changi and Pre-Dawn Tea

Right from stepping into Changi International Airport, indisputably one of the world’s classiest airports, Singapore appealed to us for its crisp, warm and vibrant character. We visited our son Arjun Sengupta most recently in 2018. He was working as a post-doctoral researcher in Economics at Nanyang Technological University (NTU).

Our flight touched down in the wee hours of the morning. When we reached our son’s house near Commonwealth metro station, it was still dark outside.  After keeping our baggage at his house, Arjun took us to a neighbouring marketplace for tea. Pleasant surprises were in store from the moment we stepped into Singapore. From the ‘boutique toilets’ at Changi Airport to the cheerful sight of people having tea and breakfast before dawn, we saw sights we hadn't experienced anywhere else in the world we'd travelled. The strong wisp of tea, coffee, and breakfast delicacies was so tempting that we had more than a couple of momos of different varieties and special plum cakes along with refreshing tea. 

A Gourmet’s Delight: From Jimmy’s Kitchen to Crystal Jade 

During our stay, we discovered the city to be a gourmet’s delight. Whether it is Holland Village or Chinatown, the Michelin-starred restaurants are all well geared to delight the palates of even the most discriminating foodies. Sometimes I do reminisce about my yearning for fried rice prepared at Jimmy’s Kitchen on Theatre Road in Calcutta. But that was in the days gone by. The fried rice we had at Crystal Jade in Holland Village was far superior to what I used to have at Jimmy’s Kitchen half a century back. Crystal Jade, a Michelin-recognised culinary institution, elevates this humble staple into a masterclass of Cantonese technique. Their signature mixed fried rice relies on Wok Hei (the elusive "breath of the wok"), dry grain separation, and an exquisite balance of fresh diced prawns, tender meats, and subtle aromatics During our stay, we discovered the city to be a true gourmet’s delight. Whether in Holland Village or Chinatown, Singapore’s Michelin-starred and fine-dining eateries are fully prepared to delight the palates of even the most discriminating foodies.

Even the smaller hawker stalls in Singapore demonstrate a remarkable mastery of the culinary arts. Yet, the flavour that still lingers most vividly on my taste buds today was the tea served alongside crisp kaya toast at Toast Box on Orchard Road.

Clean Streets and Living Heritage: The Botanical Gardens

We found Singapore to be one of the cleanest cities, compared to cities we have seen around the world. At the same time, it bustles with activities and offers a lot of attractions to tourists, as the century-old Botanical Gardens, right in downtown Singapore. The only tropical garden honoured as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it has a huge collection of orchids.

Encounters with Marine Life: Jurong Bird Park and S.E.A. Aquarium

 Jurong Bird Park, where we saw Penguins for the first time in our lives. These adorable polar birds that walk like humans are a treat to watch. Sentosa, where we had a tryst with Dolphins in the sea aquarium. Never seen a dolphin before. So loving, so friendly. Believed to be one of the smartest creatures on earth. Vaulting out of water or diving down to the ocean floor. They love playing around with their trainers cum divers. We saw them performing several manoeuvres in their repertoire. The concept of an aquarium under the sea deeply fascinated me. Unlike standard aquaria, where marine animals are kept in glass enclosures, here one has to enter a glass chamber surrounded by the sea. While the dolphins came to greet us and softly pecked the glass wall with their rostra as a show of love, the sharks menacingly roamed over the glass ceiling above our heads.   Further inside, the S.E.A. aquarium showcased myriads of colourful corals and jellyfish. The corals, in different sizes, shapes, and colours, appeared like flowers in a marine horticulture garden. The jellies drifted harmlessly, with the tangle of their vicious tentacles flowing all over. This country-city turns warm and vibrant when dusk descends.

Twilight Strolls on Orchard Road

This city-state truly comes alive with warmth and vibrancy as dusk descends. The swanky, tree-lined boulevard of Orchard Road is ideal for evening strolls. Tucked away just off Orchard Road is a quiet corner that still retains a distinct colonial charm—a pleasant blend of colonial-style architecture, charming small palazzos, and friendly evening gatherings of people enjoying their coffee and aperitifs.

Photo credit: Arundhati Sengupta

Undersea Aquarium Sentosa

A typical food plaza found across all localities in Singapore

Holland Village glitters

Crystal Jade

Holland Plaza

Singapore Botanic Gardens is one of the oldest in Asia. It boasts the largest collection of orchids and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site

A view of Singapore Botanic Gardens

Jurong Bird Park

Jurong Bird Park Singapore

Jurong Bird Park Singapore

Jurong Bird Park Singapore

Jurong Bird Park Singapore

Jurong Bird Park Singapore

On the way to Sentosa

Way to Sentosa Singapore

Undersea aquarium

Life under the sea is truly amazing. The images captured show how the sea brims with a colourful and incredible menagerie of marine life.

Dolphin

Dolphin

Dolphin

Dolphin

Dolphin

Sea Horse

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

At S.E.A. Aquarium Sentosa

A pub in colonial Singapore off Orchard Road

Beer is brewed and served at Red Dot

Candlenut is a famous restaurant in Singapore

Gardens by the Bay

Gardens by the Bay

Fort Siloso was constructed during British rule

The southernmost point of Asia